Q — Although the exhibition presents Hanbok from innovative perspectives, are there any works that focus on the intrinsic appeal of the garment itself?
Lee Bong Lee, one of the artists in the exhibition, is first and foremost a Hanbok artisan. She makes Hanbok based on traditional methods. In fact, she has studied the Hanbok production methods described in historical texts and applies those methods when making Hanbok pieces once worn in the royal court. She says she’s also practicing ancient needlework techniques.
In that respect, visitors who are interested in traditional ways of making Hanbok and Hanbok’s charm per se are recommended to look at Lee’s work. The pieces currently on display are ordinary costumes once worn by women of the court. The embroidery on those outfits was not worked by machine, but was hand-stitched by the artist using silken thread.
Q — You noted that Hanbok is reinterpreted through a modern lens in this exhibition. Are there any works that incorporate AI or other advanced technologies?
As a matter of fact, there are. Media artists Lee Jung Geun and Chae Jin Sook both used AI in their work. But that said, their training data and areas of application are completely different, which makes it interesting to compare their respective work.
For starters, the Hanbok examined by Lee Jung Geun is the kind worn in traditional dances. That’s the sort of Hanbok people often encounter in concerts and other events. Lee photographed people doing traditional dances and trained AI with those photographs to create a pattern. Interestingly, the artist used his own face on all the people created in the process. The pattern illustrates the beauty of Hanbok’s sweeping curves and bold colors. So one of the distinctive features of this artwork is its focus on the aesthetic details that can be appreciated in Hanbok.
In contrast, Chae Jin Sook explains that she trained AI on women wearing Hanbok. But as part of the training, she also used fabric cubes. That allowed her to generate Hanbok pieces where the silhouette is derived from blocky fabric. There’s some fascinating thinking behind these pieces. Hanbok is known for being roomy—the clothing itself takes up a lot of space. Chae was exploring other ways of expressing that sense of space when she noticed the spatial implications of a cube. The Hanbok images Chae generated represent clothing we could never see in reality. At the same time, that gets us thinking about Hanbok’s limitless potential for expansion in the future.
*This interview is based on a tour script provided by Han Sang Ik, the curator of the exhibition.